Our flight from Manaus to Rio de Janeiro was at 16:30, so we arose leisurely, sat by the rooftop pool, ate some lunch and made our way to the airport.
We didn't really use our time in Manaus very wisely, barely leaving the hotel, but we had accounted for this as our recoup time, and with all those bites, some rest was needed!
We boarded our flight, and soon were napping away until our arrival in Rio four hours later. In our time in South America we used a variety of airlines, LAN, Aerolíneas Argentinas and TAM. I would say all three are of similar standards, South America's answer to budget airlines. Each flight, despite how long, provided a snack and a drink (non-alcoholic), which is a luxury in comparison to UK budget airlines. The air hostesses (and it's worth noting here, they were always women) were friendly and often enthusiastic, ensuring all passengers were happy.
That evening we arrived at Rio's international airport, flew threw security (mainly because there wasn't any due to it being a domestic flight), hopped in a cab and arrived in Lapa at our hotel for the next couple of nights: the Windsor Astoria.
We were in Rio for a total of six nights and rather than bore you with our day to day movements, I've pulled out my highlights.
Selaron Steps - Lapa
Our hotel was just a short walk away from the iconic Selaron Steps - a series of brightly tiled steps designed by the Chilean artist Jorge Selaron who passed just a few months ago. The steps are covered in red tiles, with many additions from across the world, and some interesting art work. More famously known as the steps Pharrell and Snoop Dog are sitting on in the "Beautiful" video.
Due to the popularity of these steps, there are actually queues to take photos on the steps and a lady selling photo tiles, that you could leave behind as a mark of your time there. The idea was that you'd be able to send back your grandchildren in 50 years time, so they could see it embedded within the steps. A bit of a gimmick, but it seemed relatively popular, so it's good if that's something you're into.
They had some pretty awesome street art too! Pictures in the gallery at the bottom.
Santa Teresa
Santa Teresa is a neighbourhood a little higher up in Rio, with cobblestoned roads and many many restaurants, bars and shops. It's easy to spend a couple of hours wandering around taking in the sights.
We found ourselves in a quaint rooftop bar Cafecito with their cold "homemade" beer and famous fresh bread, and sat to admire the view and appreciate the weather.
We happened to go on a public holiday (they seem to have a lot of these in Brazil, and that's coming from a resident of the UK), so some things were closed. Also different cities in Brazil celebrate different public holidays, so be sure to take this into consideration when planning any itinerary.
Nightlife in Rio
The main spot for nightlife is in Lapa. There's a main street where all the bars, clubs and restaurants are on, and also where the notorious Friday night Lapa Street Party takes place.
We went to Lapa on two different occasions. The first time we went to a road facing bar and spent the evening happily sipped away on Caipirinhas (Capivodkas for me) and local beer, before venturing into a restaurant a little further up with some live music.
Note: most venues add a surcharge for live music, whether you went in to hear it or not is another matter.
The second time was for the Lapa Street Party, which occurs every Friday. This was a once in a lifetime experience. Stalls are set up on the street and under the Lapa Arches, selling everything from confectionary to alcohol (it is legal to drink on the street in Rio). You could buy a pint of caipirinha from just R$6, which is a little over £1!
You could see a lot of the locals buying bottles of alcohol, taking them to the Seralon Steps and finding a spot to sit and chat the night away with friends.
There is also live bands and music every where you look. My particular favourite was a steel pans band, just of the the Arches, who really brought out the party atmosphere.
This went on until dawn, with many people hanging around to find the perfect spot to watch the sunrise. There's something rather romantic about partying all night and watching the sunset before falling into a deep alcohol infused sleep.
Cristo Redentor
Probably the one thing every person knows Rio de Janeiro for, the large statue of Christ overlooking the city.
Getting to it is no easy fete. There are a couple of options available;
1) Book through a tour R$80 - R$120
There are many many tour providers available in Rio. Most hotels will have a service, and there are vendors alongside the beach. The benefit of these tours is that you'll have a guide who can explain a bit more about each thing you see, and they tend to do both sugar loaf and Christ on the same day. On the other hand, your time at the monuments is limited and a guided tour will cost you a fair bit more than doing it solo.
2) Take a train R$62
You can pre-book a train to take you to the top and back down on: http://www.corcovado.com.br/ingles/index.html
The route is very scenic and it is a unique experience. However you will be required to take a taxi to the train station, and you have to pre-book this online. You aren't able to just buy tickets at the station. The pre-booked ticket also gives you a time slot, so you are required to go in allocated time, which can make it difficult if you were hoping to see the sunset.
3) Take a shuttle bus R$51
The shuttle bus is available from Lido Square on Copacabana Beach and will take you up to the top, and includes a return ticket to bring you back down. The benefit of using this service is that you can purchase your ticket on the day you decide to go and it is a cheaper option. However the queues are very long for the shuttles (which fit only 15people in a bus) and you can spend much of your time waiting on either side.
We opted for the shuttle bus, and got rather lucky. As we went to purchase our tickets, we were approached by some travellers from Israel who were trying to sell their tickets because they couldn't get a refund (policy of no backsies in Rio). Understandably we were a little suspicious, but they reasoned with us that they had a tour booked for the afternoon and therefore (after already having spent an hour in the queue) did not have enough time to go now. We asked if we could verify their tickets at the ticket office, which they agreed and the ticket officer confirmed they were legitimate. The benefit for us, was we were able to take their place in the queue, which meant we only waited an hour instead of two.
The journey to the top took approximately 40minutes, where you are dropped at the bottom of a set of stairs and you take them up with the Christ's back to you (there is also a lift available). There are restaurant and shops along the way, making it firmly a tourist attraction and less of spiritual pilgrimage. Upon reaching the top, be prepared for tourists, absolutely everywhere. Some with their arms stretched out, mirroring the statue, whilst others are lying on the floor trying to get the perfect picture.
The views from the top (after fighting your way through the crowds to get to the side) are breathtaking, but you only have a quick moment to take it all in, or snap a picture before you're pushed aside by others trying to do the same.
We have been advised that it is often quieter first thing in the morning, so to avoid the crowds and appreciate the view it would be better to get up there at 8am.
Pao de Açucar (Sugarloaf Mountain)
Getting to Pao de Açucar is relatively straight forward. You can hop in any yellow cab to the bottom, purchase your tickets at the box office (R$62 although student cards get a discount, so dust it off, and take it with you) and get on the first cable car to the first platform.
In comparison to Cristo Redentor, this is far better organised, and on the first platform there are a variety of viewing points, gift shops, restaurants and bars. You could quite easily spend the day up there.
From the first platform, you take a second cable car which takes you to the top of the mountain. At the top you can walk around, getting a full 360 view.
We were lucky enough to get there for the sunset and from up there, you could see everything that makes the city what it is. The sun falling above the beautiful houses and apartments by Ipanema and Copacabana, by contrast the favelas by the Two Brothers Mountains. The impressive amount of greenery for such a large city, the huge lake on the right of the city, Cristo Redentor lighting up and of course the sea going off into a distance. All this was accentuated by a twinkling of lights turning on everywhere you looked.
I couldn't help but compare this to my favourite place in this world, Top of the Rock in New York. This really gave it a run for its money. Looking down on a city, that is so busy, that has two extremes, and really taking it in.
Hand Gliding on São Conrado beach
Yes. Jumping of a high cliff with essentially a big kite over your head. The São Conrado beach is known for hand gliding, and there is abundance of places which you can do it. We selected ours based on the reviews. After a short briefing where you ultimately sign your life away (they even ask for your blood type), you are taken up to the hill on a 4 x 4 where you're hanging of the back. That's where the dangerous part starts and ends.
Once at the top of the mountain, you are kitted up with safety gear and a harness (see picture below for side splitting laughter) and given a quick run through of what you're about to do. All you have to do is run off the cliff, the rest is all handled by your instructor.
Once in the air, my instructor Renato talked me through what we were gliding above, including one of the biggest favelas in Rio, Rochina with 200,000 residents and the motorway being constructed in time for the 2016 Olympics. The 10 minutes we spent gliding in the air were extremely peaceful, except when he asked me to "drive", at which point I cackled, screamed and panicked all at once and probably scared of a few birds.
Landing was pretty petrifying, we were aiming for the sand, and for us to land on our feet, and Renato told me that when he said "walk" I was to walk at a normal speed, except he never shouted walk but rather something that sounded vaguely Portuguese like, which I luckily took to mean walk, and we had a smooth landing, although you can't actually even see me in the landing picture!
Restaurants
There are plentiful restaurants and cafés in Rio and just going for a wander around the area means you're likely to stumble upon something. My top three were as follows:
Le Catalán (Sofitel Copacabana) Inside the hotel, this french restaurant had the most incredible service. Waiting staff were extremely attentive, and the food and wine was incredible. This was one of my best meals in our time away. It is a little on the pricer side, but great for a treat.
Brâz Pizzeria
This authentic pizzeria gives Italian pizza a run for its money. The flagship is actually in São Paulo, but due to its success it has been brought over to Rio. There is the biggest variety of pizzas (and wine) available, and whilst extremely busy, we didn't ever find ourselves waiting for too long.
Cafetina (Ipanema)
This quaint little café is good to grab some brunch or lunch, and just a short walk from either Copacabana beach or Ipanema. They have a variety of breakfasts, sandwiches and hot plates and the best iced tea I tried out here. Staff were polite and full of recommendations.
